Category: Blog

Corona Virus: Is My Dog At Risk?

Corona Virus: Is My Dog At Risk?

Lockdowns are easing in many countries, and we are heading out again to walk our dogs. What can/should we be doing to stay safe? As the SARS-CoV-2 virus was apparently an animal (bat?) virus in the first place, can our pets get/spread it? I’ve had worried dog owners asking me this question #askascientist almost every day on DMs on Sally’s IG account @scotlandwithfluffywolf. So, I thought it was time to put my thoughts down in a blog post.

Personally, I’m terrified of getting the SARS-CoV-2 virus that causes Covid-19. The virus is properly called SARS-CoV-2, the disease it causes is Covid-19, but as SARS-CoV-2 is a bit of a mouthful most media outlets are now calling the virus Covid-19. I’m going to do the same just for simplicity.

I have every reason to believe my family and myself would be high risk of requiring hospitalization were we to get sick with Covid-19, but I’m not worried about my dog Sally becoming ill. Let me try to explain why I think this way #trustmeiamimmunologist.

Can Dogs Get Covid-19?

Currently there is no evidence that dogs can become ill with Covid-19. Dogs can contract a dog-specific corona virus (which causes flu like symptoms) but do not appear to be carriers for the current human pandemic strain.

Let me repeat that:

There is NO EVIDENCE DOGS CAN GET SICK FROM COVID-19!

What About The Dog(s) That Caught The Virus?

Ah yes, you might have seen the news reports of occasional dogs, cats, mink, and the big cats in the Bronx zoo testing positive for Covid-19. Worldwide there’s been a handful of well-studied cases of dogs who have tested positive for the virus after living in close proximity with infected owners. These dogs have shown no signs of illness, and it’s not thought that they had a large enough viral load to be able to re-infect other humans or dogs. Up-to-date information on one such case, and Covid-19 risk to pets can be found at the WSAVA website and in a more readable and less technical form by University of Illinois Vet School and the UK Kennel Club.

Can I Still Hug My Dog?

I get this question more than any other. It seems when we’ve been told to minimise contact with other humans, we all crave doggie snuggles!

I’d say: YES, but WASH YOUR HANDS FIRST if you have been in contact with anyone else/out of your own home. The virus can persist on surfaces, including soft furnishings, so there is no reason to assume that it couldn’t persist on dog hair. If anyone carrying the virus hugged your dog, then the next person to stroke your dog could also be infected. I am limiting contact with my dog to immediate members of my family/household. As I just said, if an infected person cuddled your dog, they may leave virus particles on the fur, ready to infect you. Similarly, if you are a carrier, you could pass on the virus to other people who cuddle your dog (why you shouldn’t get a friend to walk your dog if you are home sick).

Can My Dog Play With Other Dogs?

See above. It’s a very low risk but still a risk. If the owners of either dog were virus carriers, this *could* spread through contact from the dog’s fur. There have been no documented cases of this happening, but it can’t be ruled out as a potential transmission route .

What About Masks?

Sally looking non-plussed with a homemade facemask. There’s no need for dogs to wear masks but people should whenever it’s not possible to maintain physical distancing.

Your own mask probably doesn’t protect YOU from becoming infected. Everyone else’s mask protects you. Non-medical face-coverings reduce the virus droplets spread by an infected person as they breathe out. So if everyone wears a mask, the spread is reduced. As your dog isn’t infected, there’s no reason for them to wear a mask. I’ve seen a few reports from animal charities saying dogs will be scared of face-masks and giving advice on how to acclimate your dog to seeing you wearing a mask. Maybe my dog isn’t particularly visually stimulated (compared to sound and smell), as she’s shown no interest/worry/change in her behaviour around mask-wearing as opposed to unmasked people. But like everything, introduce the mask to your dog in a calm environment, and give them a chance to get used to seeing your new normal.

Can My Dog Travel On Public Transport?

The same as for yourself, try to minimise your dog’s exposure to public places. This includes public transport (in countries where dogs are usually permitted), cafes, busier areas etc. If you must travel, then minimise your dog’s contact with potentially infected surfaces. Put down a towel or mat, or wipe clean the area, or if you have a smaller dog then carry them in a bag or carrier. Wipe their paws and wash your hands as soon after travel as you can and wash any mat or towel you used while travelling.

I Wash My Hands When I Return Home, Should I Wash My Dog Too?

Always wash your hands EVERY time you return home. This is the single most effective way to reduce your virus risk. Also take off your shoes and leave them at the door, and take off any outer clothing you were wearing. It probably isn’t practical or needful to wash your dog every time they’ve been outside, plus it’s likely to cause them skin irritation. However, washing their feet in a bowl of soapy water/dog safe shampoo won’t hurt and could help. Alternatively, if you have them, get your dog to wear booties outside and wash the booties on your return.

Can My Dog Use Alcohol Hand Sanitiser?

Frankly I wouldn’t. The alcohol will dry out their skin and may cause itching. If ingested it could cause alcohol poisoning. A quick paw-wash with dog friendly shampoo would be a better idea, or wash/spray with Leucillin antiseptic spray which has been shown to neutralise Covid-19 in laboratory tests.

I’m Self-Isolating. Should My Dog Isolate With Me?

Yes. If you need to separate yourself from the world, then your dog should be kept separate too. Depending on your reasons for isolation you MAY be able to walk/have someone walk your dog during this time. If you are isolating because you think you may be infectious, take your dog into isolation with you (no outdoor access except for potty breaks, ideally in a private garden). If you are isolating because you are in a high-risk group and have no wish to get sick, then both you and your dog will benefit from some fresh air and exercise. Or you could ask someone to walk your dog for you. You should always avoid unnecessary contact with other people and do not let anyone touch your dog, and don’t touch anyone else’s pets.

Help! My Dog is Getting Bored Staying Home…

Put aside time every day to focus on your pet (just as you would if you were going a walk). Play training games, and/or use puzzle toys if you have them. Make a puzzle toy by putting dog treats underneath a towel, or under tennis balls placed in a muffin tray. Play scent work games (hide a toy and reward them when they find it). Play tug. If all else fails, then brush the dog! Seriously, brush the dog, Sal has never been as well groomed as she was during our lockdown. It’s a calming and bonding experience if you choose a brush or comb that doesn’t tug, just brush or stroke lightly over their body until they get used to the grooming sensations.

If I’m Sick, Who Will Care For My Dog?

This is a big worry for me. Normally I’d ask my immediate family. If we were all to get seriously sick, then they’d be unavailable to help. Luckily, I have my dog’s breeder and Samoyed-loving friends who would step in. Do you have a “next-of-kin” for your dog? Do your friends/family know who this is? Now would be a very good time to decide on who you’d trust to look after your pets in an emergency. Maybe reach out to a dog-walking friend who lives nearby and suggest that you could be doggy next-of-kin for each other?

Are Vets And Pet Shops Open?

Vets: I can’t answer this. It depends on where you live and your vet practice. Here, most are open for essential visits but you are asked to wait outside and a staff member will come out and collect your pet for treatment.

Pet Shops: in the UK these are classed as essential shops so have (mostly) remained open. Many have restricted opening hours and may be selling from the shop doorway. Check online or phone them before making a visit. Dog groomers are beginning to open again. Sal’s favourite local pet stores Harry’s Treats, House of Hound, and Dofos are all open, and will take online or phone orders if you don’t want to shop in person. At the moment Dofos offer free next-day delivery within Edinburgh which has come to the aid of a hungry Sal more than once, when we’ve been about to run out of frozen duck necks (yes, in our house, that constitutes a crisis!). Sal’s main food is raw complete mince from Bella and Duke and their deliveries have been operating normally. So even during lockdown #thedogeatsbetterthanido.

What About The Cat?

What about them?

No, seriously, are cats at risk/a risk to you regarding Covid-19 transmission? Probably more so than dogs; cats (and ferrets) seem to be at slightly higher risk of contracting and transmitting Covid-19 (to other cats or ferrets, no cases (yet) where they’ve passed the virus back to humans or onto dogs). The risks are exceedingly low. Worldwide there have been over 18 million (3rd August 2020) human confirmed cases of the virus whereas only 18 reports of infected animals.

I’d be taking the same precautions with a pet cat as with my dog – minimising contact with other people. But, if ever you needed an excuse that a dog is a better pet choice than a cat – there you have it!

In Summary:  

  • WASH HANDS
  • WASH PAWS
  • DON’T TOUCH other dogs/let other people touch your dog
  • STAY AWAY from crowded areas if you can
  • HAVE A DOGGIE NEXT OF KIN. Make sure you have left clear instructions for who you’d wish to look after your dog
  • YOUR DOG DOESN’T NEED A FACEMASK – but YOU DO!
  • Your vet and your favourite pet store are probably still open.
  • Watch out for the cat
  • Wash your hands again!

Good luck, stay safe and together we’ll all get through this.

Any stories of how you are staying safe, good ideas for doggie brain-training games, or if you just want to chat dog-related topics, as always you can leave a comment or come say hello on my dog’s Instagram @scotlandwithfluffywolf.

Our Raw Feeding Story

Our Raw Feeding Story

Raw Fed and Fabulous – Raw is Safer and Easier Than You Imagine

Disclaimer right here before we start – Sally is rawfed by Bella and Duke. If you click this link or use the code INSALWOLF50 at checkout you’ll get 50% off your first order (UK only) from any of their ranges and any size box up to 20kg. This is not an affiliate link, we don’t get anything extra if you sign up, just the satisfaction of knowing your pup is now on a species appropriate raw diet.

Sally with her raw food. To feed a balanced diet either look for a raw dog food supplier that provides “complete” minces (meat/bone/offal/veg and fruit) or put these ingredients together yourself – or do a little bit of both!

Raw is safe and nutritious if you follow these three simple rules:

  1. Buy from a reputable raw supplier that batch tests for pathogens
  2. Feed “complete minces” and/or make sure you feed a wide variety of proteins (and a small quantity of fresh fruit/veg). Use approximately 80:10:10 for 80% muscle meat, 10% offal, 10% bone.
  3. Keep good food hygiene and follow the manufacturer’s defrost and storage guidelines.

Why Sally is Raw Fed

Sally’s breeder fed raw. This is probably the most common feeding choice among UK Samoyed fanciers. Honestly (to my shame) I’d never looked into raw feeding prior to getting Sally. I was somewhat aware that the cheaper kibble foods were designed for convenience of the owner and profits of the pet food company rather than to provide optimum nutrition. I’d fed my cats on a mix of kibble and home-cooked meals for this reason. I thought raw was a step too far – hippy nonsense and how could raw meat be more nutritious than carefully cooked meals and kibble with Science behind it (I mean it must be good if the vets sell it and it says SCIENCE in big letters on the bag)?

Sal’s breeder was adamant. She’d owned and then bred Samoyeds for most of her life. She fed raw and if I didn’t agree to feed raw then I’d likely not be getting one of her pups!

Raw can be:

  • more nutritious as vitamins and proteins aren’t denatured by cooking
  • better for dental hygiene as raw bones clean teeth and less starch means less dental plaque
  • result in smaller denser poops that are easier to clean up plus better for anal gland health
  • give a more glossy coat, brighter eyes, less hyperactivity but greater energy

I went away and researched raw feeding, and what I found was that although the majority of mainstream vets did not approve, there seemed to be a lot of good sense, and a smattering (although not nearly enough research) of science to support raw feeding.

Please bear in mind this was five years ago, since then raw has become more mainstream, there’s even a pro-raw vet society. What I found when I was starting out were some raw feeding Facebook groups full of well-meaning people, but pushing a hardline agenda “raw = good, kibble = bad, all vets are evil and only after your money”, it seemed more than a little extreme and rather intimidating to a new to raw (and dogs) new puppy owner.

Talking to Sal’s breeder and a few other Samoyed owners who fed raw helped: “ignore them (the FB groups) and all their fancy ideas, feed the pre-prepped minces as a base and add some extras if you want/afford to, remember not every meal has to be 100% balanced, but try and feed as great a variety as you can. Do you work out the exact fat, protein, and carbohydrate content of each of your own meals? No, then why get so fussy about your pup’s food? Just make sure she has a varied diet and you aim for around 80% muscle meat, 10% offal and 10% bone and add in some veg too if she’ll eat it. Otherwise sprinkle a herb mix such as Dorwest Keepers Mix or Easy Greens”. Their common sense “just get on with it and feed the dog” approaches were a great help.

After this, my main worry about feeding raw was not “would my pup get all the nutrients she needed?”. I thought if I saw her even beginning to lack in any way then I’d pop her straight onto a quality kibble and her breeder would just have to lump it. My main worry was “is it safe?”. What about the bacterial and parasite risk? I’m mostly vegetarian (for health and ethical reasons) and I live with chronic autoimmune problems. The last thing I wanted was bowls of “dirty” raw meat lying around – and a dog whose mouth (and the other end too) would be a disease-carrying risk.

Raw Can Be As Safe as Kibble

So, I researched “does raw dog food carry an additional disease risk?” I now believe the answer is “NO”. Carefully done, the risks from raw are very low and no more risk than feeding kibble.

Let me explain.

All reputable raw dog food companies batch test their food for pathogens. They should also hold the food (in deep freeze) until they have the test results back before shipping it out. This way no contaminated food should reach the consumer. When I got Sal, I phoned round all the UK brands at the time and asked them their protocols. I only bought from the brands that took me seriously and gave me a full answer. So, if you are new to feeding raw or switching raw brand then check out the brand’s website, phone them up and ask about batch testing. Ask Google to see if they’ve had any recalls. If you buy in the USA or UK from brands that batch test for pathogens, and are DEFRA/USDA registered and inspected, then the bacterial content of the meat should be so low as to cause no harm.

Interestingly (and good ammunition if your vet is anti-raw) the largest contaminated pet food incident was from a Salmonella-infected kibble, and kibble recalls are far more frequent than raw recalls over bacterial contamination fears.

A recent study asking raw feeders to self-report any times they/their pet got sick from suspected food poisoning found only 39 cases out of over 16,000 households surveyed (less than 0.2%). Out of these 39, only 3 were confirmed by vet/medical laboratory analysis. This survey was conducted by the DOGRISK group at the University of Helsinki, who continue to investigate and publish in veterinary journals.

So far, I haven’t seen any research that makes me question the safety of feeding raw here in the UK from UK-based suppliers that source only UK meat and batch test for pathogens.  

However, it is RAW meat so you should always handle it with the proper care and hygiene. Clean all utensils with hot soapy water, disinfect surfaces, and if your dog is a messy eater then wipe their face after meals. Store food in the fridge/freezer and follow manufacturer’s guidelines on defrost times/temperatures. Don’t leave raw food bowls sitting out after feeding. Please use common sense and good food hygiene.

The main risk as I see it is when you start buying meat (even human grade) that is not from a raw dog food supplier. This does not undergo the same batch testing for bacterial load, and fresh unfrozen meat and fish can carry parasites such as flukes and tapeworms. If you are going to DIY from the supermarket or butcher, then be aware of the increased risk and ALWAYS freeze first for 2-3 weeks to kill any parasites.

This all sounds like quite a fuss, so why did I continue with raw? Well my puppy thrived on it. I saw all the supposed benefits of healthy coat, skin, eyes, health and stamina. Plus the poo, we need to talk about the poos (it’s true, raw feeders are obsessed with their dogs poo). Smaller, less frequent and more “kickable” offerings than from my friends dogs on kibble or canned food diets.

Also, when I was researching raw food what I found out about some kibble was frankly horrifying. Of course, all dog foods claim they are wonderful (it’s not good marketing otherwise is is?), but some are better than others. The nutritional standards for pet foods have not been updated since the 1970s. In the USA and the UK, you can market kibble as “chicken” if it contains only 4% chicken by dry weight. So, the other 96% of the kibble pellet can be made up of starchy carbohydrates that some dog breeds find hard to digest and rendered meat (the left-overs boiled off the carcasses, abattoir waste…). Not all kibbles are equal, in some the main ingredient IS human-food grade meat as named on the bag. If you are curious then the impartial website All About Dog Food rates the UK (and some USA) most popular foods, and gives you the lowdown on what they contain.

Samoyeds Thrive on a Low Carb Diet

Sal being a Samoyed is one of the dog breeds the least able to digest starchy foods.Virtually all kibbles (grain free or grain-rich) use starches to bind the pellets together. Carbohydrates (starches) are digested by an enzyme called amylase, we humans have this enzyme in our digestive tract and saliva. So, we begin to digest starchy foods as we chew and swallow them. Wolves and dogs mostly produce amylase in their stomachs. Wolves tend to have low amylase levels and are poor at digesting starches. Some European dog breeds that evolved alongside farming societies for thousands of years have far higher amylase levels and are more efficient at digesting starches (so much so that Bella and Duke have recently developed a new Premium Range with a higher percentage of veg to suit these breeds), whereas many northern and “primitive” breeds including Samoyeds have wolf-like starch digestion. I’ve seen the results whenever a well-meaning friend has fed Sal too many starchy dog treats and it isn’t pretty! For her digestive health I’ll stick to raw thank you! She’s raw fed and fabulous.

Sal is Raw Fed and Fabulous

She’s fed on a diet of complete minces from a UK-based supplier (Bella and Duke) who run batch checks as part of their standard safety protocols. I supplement with meaty bones and offal from other safety-conscious UK suppliers and a small amount of fresh veg and fruit. I like to know that her meat is locally and ethically sourced and I’ll still phone up new companies and ask them awkward questions!

For anyone thinking of starting out on raw I’d strongly advise that you copy our feeding plan. Start with the minces where someone else has done the hard work for you to ensure it’s balanced. As you get more confident you can add in some DIY extras or go full DIY.

Sally’s food. Most meals are Bella and Duke mince (now 50% off with the code INSALWOLF50), but for variety I’ll DIY the occasional meal.

Look out for a more detailed article coming soon on what nutrient groups should be included in a complete raw diet. I’ll tackle should we feed veg, grain-free and potential DCM risk, and which supplements I think are beneficial and which are marketing hype, plus why I don’t feed either “lightly cooked” meals or dried raw.

Note: I’m NOT a vet or a dog dietician, I’m a PhD immunologist trained in critical thinking. All views are my own, talk to your vet before making any major changes to your dog’s nutrition. If you are interested I recently wrote a longer piece for HelloBark on raw feeding, and the Bella and Duke Facebook Group is a good place to go for information and advice.

Finally to end with (as I know you’ve been expecting a photo of Sal unleashing her inner wolf/polar bear), here you go:

Bon appetit! Sally enjoying some lamb ribs.

Any questions or comments? Do you raw feed? Shoot me a message and let’s chat (but keep it civil please).

Why a Samoyed? What’s a Samoyed?

Why a Samoyed? What’s a Samoyed?

Why I Chose My Fluffy Wolf

Before I tell my story, this short checklist is for anyone who’s stumbled on this page as part of your deciding “should I get a Samoyed?

Yes, if:

  • You are home most of the day or can take your dog to work.
  • You have access to a park or garden where they can exercise.
  • You are willing to put in 1-3 hours exercise/walking a day once they are adults.
  • The hair EVERYWHERE doesn’t alarm you.
  • The barking doesn’t bother you/your neighbours (Sal is reasonably quiet, but Samoyeds are talkers).

Samoyed History

Samoyed dogs (can be pronounced Sam-o-yed or Sam-oid) originated with the Samoyedic/Nenet nomadic people of Siberian Russia. Their dogs were used to herd reindeer, hunt small game and deer, pull sleds, guard campsites, snuggle up and keep people warm at night, and watch out for the children. They are very much a “do anything and everything” medium sized dog.

They are high maintenance with their thick double-coated fur (which can be spun into a warm wool much like angora) and high energy; they need plenty of physical and mental stimulation and/or a job to do to avoid boredom (and trust me the last thing you want is a bored Samoyed, they excel in house and garden re-decorating).

Sally modelling a skein of yarn “chiengora” spun from her undercoat. Samoyed fluff makes a strong, soft, warm, fluffy textured yarn.

They are a very ancient dog breed descended from arctic wolves. They were first “discovered” by western Europeans in the late 1880s for use on the polar expeditions of the late 1800s to early 1900s before they became a popular pet breed. The original Samoyeds were any of white, black, brown, or parti-coloured – see W.E. Mason 1915 “Dogs of All Nations” but the snowy “arctic” dogs proved the most popular with western dog fanciers and today’s breed standard only allows for white, cream or biscuit (light sandy brown) dogs.

The entry for “Samoyed” in W.E. Mason’s 1915 book “Dogs of All Nations”. The dog is recognizably a Samoyed, albeit one with short “working style” hair.

The closely related Siberian Laika comes in all the ancestral colours, and dark and parti-coloured Samoyed-type dogs are still seen today in their ancestral home of Siberia. There are some (myself included) who would like to see these dogs permitted in the show ring, and so increase the genetic diversity of what has become a rare breed.

Sally’s friend Mishka the beautiful Siberian Laika. Mishka’s coat has all the colours that have been described for these two breeds.

I first fell in love with Samoyeds as a child when I met two that belonged to a friend of my mother. When I was looking to get a dog of my own, I had forgotten the breed name (if I ever knew it), but luckily googling “large white fluffy dog” and “polar bear dog” easily found what I was looking for. My mother set a simple rule when I was a child “you can have any pet you like as long as it lives in a cage, you clean and feed it, and I don’t have to walk it – that means no dogs!”. I stretched this definition to the limit, first with fish and then breeding hamsters, mice, cavies and cornsnakes, before finally adding two cats (cage-free) to the menagerie, but what I really wanted was a dog. Not surprisingly, one of my first jobs was in the education department of a zoo!

Five years ago, I graduated from my PhD. To get me through the final year (anyone reading this who has or is doing a PhD will know exactly what I mean) I made a pact with myself that after graduation I would get a dog. I tried the dog rescues first (having been made aware of the #adoptdontshop lobby), but understandably the reputable rescues didn’t want to rehome to someone who lived alone and worked full-time (albeit with a good support network and options for doggy daycare). I went on to have a bad experience with the (in my view) less than reputable end of the dog rescue business that made me realise that if I wanted a dog I’d have to find a puppy.

I’d known several huskies and GSDs, and although I’d read about the similarities and differences between the various northern and working breeds, I wasn’t at all expecting the Samoyed personality quirks.

They are loving, affectionate, needy (you’ll never pee alone again), stubborn, difficult to train (unless they see what’s in it for them), talkative, pull like sled dogs, need a huge amount of training before being trustworthy offleash (some will never be trusted), high energy but thankfully most (including Sally) have a good offswitch too, hairy (the fluff gets everywhere) and have a low boredom threshold. If you aren’t providing enough stimulus, they will make their own entertainment and you won’t like the results: interior redecorating and landscape design are frequent hobbies.

Would I have another breed now? Probably not. Will Sally be my last Samoyed? I hope not. But they are hard work. Please, if you are considering this breed go talk to breeders, but also to pet owners, and try to visit and walk with as many as you can. You’ll see they all have their own personalities, but you’ll also see the behaviours general to the breed. Would I recommend a Samoyed as a pet? As I said at the start, it depends on your lifestyle, if you have the time and resources and aren’t too bothered about talkativeness and hair on everything, you’ll find them the most loving companions.

For me, once a puppy was on the cards, my thoughts kept returning to those polar bear dogs. I read up everything I could on Samoyeds, and I was lucky to find a knowledgeable breeder relatively close-by, and even luckier to find out they had a litter (they only breed every 1-3 years). I went to see them to learn more about the breed. Sally walked over and plonked herself in my lap and licked my face. And the rest, as they say, is history. I’d found my fluffy wolf.

Sally as a 7 week old pup. This is the first photo I took of her, the first day I met her. I didn’t know yet she’d be my fluffy wolf.

World Blood Donor Day 2020

World Blood Donor Day 2020

The 14th June is #WorldBloodDonorDay, and to mark the occasion Sally (the fluffy one) is going to donate blood for Pet Blood Bank UK.

Sally modelling her Pet Blood Bank bandana

Actually the dates aligning is just coincidence. Sally is a dog blood donor and she’s on the standby donor list, so if anyone can’t make their appointment we get a call up at short notice. We got the call yesterday to ask could we attend.

Pet Blood Banks

Just as there are blood donor banks for humans, several countries now have national or statewide blood banks for dogs (and cats). These tend to be established by charities or veterinary hospitals and sadly they always have high demand for their services so they are always looking to recruit new donors.

In the UK there’s PetBloodBankUK, in the USA the American Kennel Club Canine Health Foundation has a list of donor programs, in Australia it’s the Australian Animal Blood Bank, in New Zealand the New Zealand Companion Animal Blood Bank and Canada has the Canadian Animal Blood Bank. Asking Google for “pet blood bank” and your home state/country will give you their details.

Sally donates her pint of blood

Why Should My Dog Donate Blood?

Just one blood donation could SAVE THE LIVES OF UP TO FOUR OTHER DOGS. A single unit of donated blood is processed into two units of plasma and two of red cells. These are used in transfusions to canine patients who have suffered trauma, major surgery, or suffer from genetic blood disorders. Basically, for any situation in which a human might need a blood transfusion there’s a doggie equivalent. While previously, without access to blood transfusion services, these conditions would be fatal for our pets, today with the help of dog blood donors and blood transfusions it is possible to save and extend canine lives.

Why Does Sally Donate Her Blood?

One of Sal’s dog friends had an accident and required major surgery and then had major internal bleeding following the surgery. They needed a blood transfusion to stabilize them. They’ve since made a full recovery. This is how we first heard about dog blood donation and as Sal fitted the donor criteria I signed her up. I felt that we should give something back as her friend’s life had been saved through someone’s selfless donation.

Donor Criteria – Wanted: Large Friendly Dogs

  • Be in good health, between 1-7 years old, and over 25kg
  • Be friendly and calm in new surroundings and with new people
  • Not having travelled abroad
  • Be fully vaccinated and/or titre tested
  • Not on any current medication
  • Not have undergone major surgery (except spay/neuter) and not have received a blood donation

Note: each pet blood donor scheme has slightly different donor criteria so check with your local scheme.

Negative is a Positive in a Donor

Similarly to people, dogs have blood groups. There are at least 7, perhaps 11 different dog blood groups but they can be simplified as dog erythrocyte antigen (DEA 1) positive or negative or as a third rare group: weakly positive. Always the awkward nonconformist, you can guess which blood group Sally is! Negative blood types make up a third or less of the donor population, but these are the most valuable as they are universal donors. DEA 1- blood is able to be given to any dog in an emergency. Breeds and crosses most likely to be DEA 1- include:

  • Airedale Terriers
  • American Bulldogs
  • Border Collies
  • Boxers
  • Dobermans
  • Dogue de Bordeaux
  • English Bull Terriers
  • Flat Coated Retrievers
  • German Shepherds
  • Greyhounds
  • Lurchers
  • Old English Sheepdogs
  • Pointers
  • Weimaraners

If you are lucky enough to share your life with one of these breeds, and they meet the donation criteria, then please think about registering them as a donor. All dogs are special, but as blood donors these breeds are extra-special.

What Happens When Your Dog Donates Blood?

This will vary depending on where in the world you are, and at the moment COVID restrictions mean that that for the safety of the humans involved, only the pets go into the donor centre.

In normal times you are met by a representative of the blood donor service. They ask you to fill out a health check questionnaire, weigh your dog on a step-on scales, and then you wait until the vet is ready to examine your dog.

Next, your dog is given a through examination. A small patch of fur is shaved on both sides of their neck (over the jugular veins). This is the part that is most tickly and scary to Sally. She doesn’t like the sound of the shavers and the feel of being shaved. After this is done, the nurses will withdraw a small vial of blood to check for clotting, cell count and to send off for screening for blood-borne diseases. If your dog’s blood clotting and cell count are within normal range you will then be asked to wait again until the blood donor team are ready.

Your dog is then taken into the donation room (in normal times you could go too and hold their paw!). They are lifted up onto a padded table and made comfortable lying on their side. A vet nurse then places the extraction needle in the dog’s neck and begins the donation. The dog is bled for no more than 10 minutes. In this time they hope to extract 1 pint of blood. If the dog gets distressed, the blood flow slows, or their heart rate changes then the donation session is immediately cut short. The welfare of the donor is of paramount importance. After the needle is removed they get a colourful vet-wrap neck-bandage and a lot of cuddles and fussing and told they are a good girl/boy!

After they have donated you are asked to remain in or near the session venue until your dog has drunk some fluids (plenty of waterbowls are provided) and eaten some food (bring your own or let your dog partake of the free treats on offer!) and has been checked over by the vet. There’s the obligatory photographs for the blood bank’s social media pages and then you are free to go.

Donors are not paid, but in the UK, Pet Blood Bank gives you a goodie bag with Fish4dogs treats, a dog toy and a bandana. More valuable than a cash incentive is the complete health check your dog has received for free, and the knowledge that your dog is helping save lives.

Please Help Spread the Word

If your dog fits the criteria then please sign them up as a doggie blood donor today, if they are ineligible you can still help – please spread the word to friends with large friendly dogs that dog blood donors are needed. Take a moment to spread the word and save a life. Thank you!

Is your dog a blood donor? Any questions or comments about dog blood donation then leave a comment below.

Hello There!

Hello There!

Hello world: how to start? Hello from Sally (the fluffy one) and Claire (the badly dyslexic typist). Similarly to so many others, our lives were disrupted by COVID-19. Until the world reaches a new safe normal we are stuck in lockdown in rural Scotland.

Sally and the Bluebells. Photo taken last year. For now #staysafe and #staylocal.

To keep myself sane more than anything else I thought I’d share some of our walks, our dog training and feeding, and day-to-day lives with you. Wherever you are in the world I hope you are safe, making the best of things, and above all I pray you find your own happiness. Sal sends fluffy hugs too! #withlovefromscotland